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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.